wirelessguy2005 wrote:My personal experience with 221 brass has not been great. When necking it down to 20 VT i typically loose about 5 per bag of 100. I also found that the 221 brass was not as strong as the 17 FB and therefore i wouldn't spend the time necking it down if i had a choice. There is one exception, when Nosler gets their 221 brass on the market I would do some testing and possibly reconsider.
Rick in Oregon wrote:Using the Redding form die set, I have never lost a single case. I anneal after all forming and neck turning, and after fireforming both calibers, not a single case has ever been lost due to splitting or any other reason.
I attribute my success for no case loss to the three die set from Redding, plus annealing; no personal skills on my part whatsoever. It's all in the dies baby, and how carefully you form those cases.
I have always used the 20 VT FL die to form my cases, however there are other options as Rick indicated. I have never made the 20 VT any other way so i don't have any information to offer up. I am sure Rick will be happy to provide some additional information on the process he uses. As far as annealing goes there are a number of different methods that guys use. We have a short video on our website that shows one method. If you get a chance take a look at it, it will show you the basics of one method of annealing. Here is the link to the video. http://www.customreloadingtools.com/crt_006.htm
Rick in Oregon wrote:Jim, if you only use a F/L 20VT sizer to form the brass, you run the risk of neck splits. Some have had decent luck doing it this way, but TK long ago advised me to use a gradual step-down process instead of going to the new smaller diameter right out of the gate.
The 3-die set allows a first partial neck dia. reduction, then the bushing neck die further reduces it in the final step. Still not rocket science, but from talking with others on this who have done it longer than I, it seems logical and does indeed work well.
The only reason I neck turn at all is to ensure consistent neck thickness for proper bullet tension (= LR accuracy) and usually just give the necks a 50% cleanup to remove any high/thick spots created during the forming process.
As for annealing, again, not rocket science. PM me and I'll glady tell you what has worked for me for a very long time.
Guess I can't complain too much about my hands.
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